Saturday, April 23, 2016

Twice Rode Nice Roads

Since it's called "riding" should share a few favorite Rhode Island roads. Totally subjective, scenic vistas are limited in a fairly flat state unless you enjoy bay views and beach waves, of which there are plenty. Rare high points do provide overlooks, none more impressive than from Newport Pell Bridge on a clear, still morning. East Side of Providence has Prospect Park where a statue of Roger Williams glowers over city below. Chapel View in Cranston and Stone Hill in Johnston offer glimpses of faraway downcity skyline. So you’re fairly warned, “riding” can also imply deriding, as in running down moronic foibles and petty pretenses in a diminutive state with so few claims to fame.

Some stretches attract better by season. From January through early April dangers from icy or narrow roads exist. But you may still be tempted by midday spins past foggy coves, frozen ponds, or snow covered fields. Winter quiet can be eerie or peaceful depending upon what surrounds. Naked landscapes look completely different than when draped in leaves. Birches akimbo and stark with white bark stand apart from gloomy pines huddled in lines and shamed maples and oaks with tanned cloaks scattered underfoot.

From late April through June, you can reliably plan to be where displays and events occur, such as historic reenactments, orchards in bloom, or renowned parades worth seeing once. Annual highlights include Gaspee Day Parade and the Memorial Day commemoration of armed service at Exeter's Veterans Cemetery festooned with thousands of American flags. Midway through May, URI’s East Farm on North Road has 200 blossoming crabapple trees and hosts visitors at a small merchant fair.

Shade eases your passage on sweltering July and August afternoons, although so do ocean breezes if you can tolerate thick traffic. About the best way to observe nation's oldest 4th of July parade in Bristol is to park in neighboring Warren and take bikeway in. Otherwise, it a long walk unless you know someone or live on parade route. Renown for art and culinary schools, festivals for both appeal. Aquaculture and seafood are saluted annually in South County. Arts and crafts are shown in Scituate, Westerly and Wickford. Pawtucket organizes an open studio crawl in September. Providence has several permanent galleries and tastings events held at convention center.

Colorful foliage attracts in October north and west of capitol. Curious foodies taste clam cakes and johnnycakes at Usquepaug and Richmond fairs. November afternoons with purple skies and yellowed expanses radiate a sense of belonging. December doles out hectic short spins amidst holiday shoppers, but also opportunities to pass fabulous light displays at night if suitably equipped. LaSalette Shrine in neighboring Attleboro and Slater Park in Pawtucket will get you more than half way through your annual search for a million points of light.

Naturally, loops through major parks, such as Colt, Goddard, Lincoln and Roger Williams, are usually pleasant. Comparatively ideal are 80 miles of 7 linear parks in state's bikeway system, since devoid of car fumes and motorist impatience and relatively flat. However, few are lit at night, patrolled, or planted as parks with flower beds, specimen shrubs, or stately trees, but they do cross swirling eddies on old train trestles and pass fascinating architecture built centuries ago from native granite. RIDOT offers a map online with all bikeways in detail and suitable roads indicated in blue.

Wary of drawing an army, excluding worthy, implying safety, or insulting ordinary, reluctantly list 10 appealing, brief circuits that take in some of state's best ambience whether you bike or drive. In either case, proceed carefully and share roads nicely. Since all forms of travel present risks, participants assume all responsibilities.

1. Sakonnet: Begin at Island Park in Portsmouth and head north. Cross Sakonnet Bridge, then south to Main Street in Tiverton. Cross bridge on Namaqutucket. Again intersect RI-77, right to Seapowet through bird sanctuary, then along Puncatest Neck. Optionally, descend to Fogland Beach on Sakonnet River. After a few miles more south on RI-77, turn east onto Meeting House to Little Compton Commons, where you can explore quaint village and read Rhode Island Red plaque. After all, this chicken is, perhaps appropriately, the state bird. Willow, South Lake, Brayton, Bulgarmarch, Fish and Souza get you back to Sakonnet Bridge on quiet back roads after about 29 miles. Or you could backtrack along RI-77 and include shops and treats at Tiverton 4 Corners. During Summer, an authentic clam shack awaits your return.

2. Newport: Begin at Kings Park on Wellington, then loop Harrison, Ridge, Ocean, and Bellevue Avenues. Can’t beat boats in harbor, Fort Adams, Light at Castle Hill, ocean spray at Brenton Point, and opulent mansions, though traffic can be formidable. Best to choose early morning or offseason. Return on Memorial Drive and take left onto Thames Street, where you’ll see “The Wave” bronze, and wend south past a warren of small restaurants and shops before ending after about 15 miles. A right instead on Memorial to Purgatory will extend to Sachuest Point Reserve and vineyards of Middletown for tasting(s).

3. Narragansett: Another route that offers sea shores and superior vistas begins at North Kingstown Park n’ Lock at intersection of RI-1A and RI-138. Head south on Boston Neck Road past Chase Farm and note view across Narragansett Bay to Jamestown and Newport. Cross bridge at Narrow River and look both ways for more great views. Continue past town beaches and underneath The Towers on Ocean Road until you reach Scarborough Beach. Directly backtrack for about 22 miles. If you want more, extend to Point Judith Light and/or include a loop west to Sand Hill Cove and village of Galilee. Throughout are eateries and places to try namesake beer, several open year round.

Add interest on return by turning left after Narrow River onto Old Boston Neck through Middlebridge, then right up Bridgetown to retrace through Saunderstown, where there’s a small snuff mill museum associated with colonial portrait painter Gilbert Stuart, then back to start.

4. New Shoreham: All of Block Island suggests Scottish moors. The Nature Conservancy designated it among “The Last (12) Great Places” in the Western Hemisphere, so definitely worth a 45 minute boat trip if seas are calm or shorter flight from Westerly. From ferry landing within an hour by bike you can ring 10 miles of lower island on West Side, Cooneymus past Rodman Hollow, Lake Side, and Mohegan Trail, stopping by Southeast Lighthouse high on a bluff above Atlantic Ocean. To double distance, go up Corn Neck to North Lighthouse and retrace before afternoon ferry back to Point Judith. Or, by all means, lounge on a pristine beach or quaff brews within sight of ferry dock.

5. Glocester: Start around intersection of RI-44 and RI-116 in Greenville. Smith Avenue to Snake Hill passes orchards in Spring bloom, Mainly shady in Summer, town is renowned for its good road surfaces and low population density. Turn northwest onto Turtlelotte Hill. Cross and trace Putnam Pike for a mile, stop at Brown & Hopkins General Store (among nation’s oldest, open daily since 1809) in ancient village of Chepachet. Retrace up Turtlelotte Hill to Pound and sharply turn onto Paris Irons. A right on Snake Hill then quick left on Old Cranberry Hill tracks down Sandy Brook onto Rocky Hill Road. Elmdale leads to Polebridge, then a left on RI-116 north to right on Windsor. A left on Greenville ends your 20 mile spin.

6. Smithfield: Same start as 5, this is a hilly, shady Summer route with nice Fall foliage on back roads practically deserted midday. Go north on Austin Avenue to Mapleville Road. Either bear left onto strenuous Evans or right onto easier Tarkiln. Both lead eventually to Colwell. Right on Mattity then Nichols brings you to Log Road, a technical challenge for cyclists with twisty turns and undulating terrain dangerously south down and past Stillwater Reservoir. Pleasant View with its unpleasant traffic can’t be avoided, but a right off RI-116 onto Pleasant View Circle back onto Austin lets you to skip the nasty intersection at RI-44 near end, having covered, in all, about 17 miles.

7. Cumberland: Another reliable Fall foliage circuit starts near end of RI-99 (off RI-146), wherever convenient for you, and takes in varied water views and wide fields of Northeast Corner. Follow Mendon Road east to Cumberland Hill. Turn left on West Wrentham north. Turn east on rolling, twisty, tight Tower Hill, and right on Diamond Hill. Off route south on Diamond Hill Road is Phantom Farm with hot beverage and pastries. Again turn east on Reservoir crossing causeway. Continue north, bearing left on Burnt Swamp. To extend, you can continue straight with lefts on Hancock and West and a right on Arnold, up steep hill to The Big Apple, where fruits and treats are sold in September and October. Or instead take a left on claustrophobic Sumner Brown admiring allĂ©e of trees at Mount St. Rita cloister, then, in both cases, south on RI-121. The entrance to Diamond Hill State Park and Ice Cream Factory are to your left just ahead, from which you can backtrack. Or go straight on Pine Swamp then turn southwest on West Wrentham to Elder Ballou Meeting House, where, behind cemetery, cumberlandite, state’s official stone, was once mined for its iron content. Mendon Road to end completes about 15 miles, 18 or 20 with snack detour(s).

8. Scituate: Many bicyclists challenge themselves year round with this 14 mile circuit of lower Scituate Reservoir along State Routes 12, 14 and 116. Beware of fast vehicles, narrow roads, and sweaty climbs. Trees are mostly conifers and oaks, so colorful foliage doesn’t draw, yet does include Ashland Causeway and Gainer Dam, magnificent views across state’s largest manmade lake. Access from wherever you wish. Many choose the commons at North Scituate, about 3.5 miles north of route at the intersection RI-6A and RI-116. Others choose the village of Hope, 2 miles south of route, past the sporadically entertaining water aeration plant with scores of 30’ tall plumes. Where RI-12 intersects with RI-14/102, Ponagansett Road offers a mile detour to an impressive waterfall on the Barden Reservoir. There are no temptations en route, though Sunset Orchards nearby in North Scituate offers baked items and local fruit once harvested. In Spring, just past orchard there’s an impressive display of private rhododendrons you can visit for a small donation.

9. Lincoln. Begin anytime except in Winter at either Flanagan Campus of CCRI or Twin Rivers Casino off RI-146. Head east on Twin River Road, which leads into Lincoln Woods State Park. Bear right and follow park road past Olney Pond. At first real intersection (unmarked) turn right and descend through a rare covered bridge to exit onto RI-123. A right and 3 blocks ahead visit Eleazer Arnold House, a 17th Century stone ender. Further is Front Street with snacks and stores. Retrace RI-123. At Moshassuck River (sources are Olney and several smaller ponds) pass Moffet Mill (1812), one of state’s first machine shops, and Smith’s federal fieldstone Hearthside House (1810). Bear right at waterfall to continue tracing historically significant Great Road through Lime Rock village (1665). Turn west on Wilbur. Pass Conklin quarry, the source of limestone from which RI’s statehouse was built. Cross over RI-146 and turn left on RI-246, which parallels highway. Turn west on Harris to Jenckes Hill, then south on Angell. Turn east on Twin River to complete 12 interesting but strenuous miles.

10. Warwick: One of state’s busiest and most populous cities is also pretty flat along bayside coves, so makes for decent Winter spins if you're careful. Begin in Pawtuxet Village on the Cranston side of river. Little waterfalls below bridge are what give river its native name. Head south on Narragansett Parkway alongside bay to Spring Green, through neatly kept Governor Francis Farms on Algonquin, then Squantum which leads to Warwick Avenue. Watch for jets and planes on final approach to Green Airport. Carefully navigate dicey intersection of Airport and West Shore Roads, among state’s worst. Once safely on West Shore, proceed a dull mile to a left on Royal in quaint Conimicut Village with its picket fenced cottages. Bellman becomes Shawomet, then Point leads into Conimicut Park with a panorama of Providence River spilling into Narraganset Bay. Point leads back to West Shore. Next left on Tidewater, Longmeadow, then Palmer bring you to Rocky Point, a former amusement park which now features a biking/walking path and fine overlook. Backtrack Palmer to either bike path or Oakside to intersect Warwick Neck Avenue back to West Shore Road north. Turn left on Church, then right on Beach back to Conimicut. Retrace West Shore to nasty Hoxie, then Squantum to Narragansett Parkway. Fair Street leads to Post Road and ride's end after 17 miles ready for a hot beverage at Little Falls Bakery & Cafe.